Nova

for a good price, $1,000-$3,000

Here’s one in Fresno.

Start up sounds of my 63 Chevy II / Nova

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Technorati Tags: bowtie, Chevrolet, Chevy, chevyII, duece, nova, small block

Anyone know where i could buy some 350 motor mounts and if you know of a website..let me know..thanks people

I’d use the Classic Industries motor mounts, part #NJG29. You cannot use an off the shelf lower mount for an early Chevy II. ‘62-67 Novas use a specific lower mount for V8 cars and I seriously doubt that any parts store is going stock them. You will also need a notched sump oil pan for drag link clearance, Milodon PN 31060, or an original V8 Chevy II pan.

WTF?!?!?!

54 chevy gasser and 63 nova ss

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Technorati Tags: 1/8, 1963, 63, 64, 65, belair, blower, blown, burnout, camaro, car, Chevy, dodge, Drag, dragstrip, fast, ford, gasser, London, Mile, mustang, nova, Race, rat, rod, SS

There is only one answer.
Sign the title and ship the car to me, no questions asked.

Someday you’ll see it on TV and smile…..

Have fun dude!

Two early bracket rounds …. both 8.90 passes in 1992

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Technorati Tags: 1963, 63, Burn out, nova, Sears Point, Sonoma, Will Pennington

I am buying a Chris Alston chassis works front clip and they say 17" wheels is as big as I can go. I know I have seen this done before. Please help, I already have the wheels & tires (18 x and almost ready for the next step of the build. Remember this is a 1963 and not a 1966.

Dude that is going to look SWEEEEEEEEEEET
good luck !!

This Alcohol burnin, Nitro injected, blown out monster of a ‘63 lays 300ft of rubber, right befor he races an old corvette. I ran out of memory befor his run…but just so u know… 6.66sec on the 1/4 @ 224mph……That’s not the tires screaming…it’s the asphalt!!!

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Technorati Tags: Dragracing

I have a 63 Nova Convertible with a 283 SS motor (there is a difference in the crank), 3 spd trans, 10 bolt rear end (unknown gears). I built the engine with a friend, it has dart ported heads, edelbrock Performer RPM cam and intake, edelbrock 500 CFM carb, petronix flamethrower distributor, forged aluminum pistons and has been bored 5 over. The engine put out some serious HP starting at 2500-3000 rpm. With the current set up I have to hold the brakes to keep it from driving off; I have tuned this thing to perfection with the current setup, and it will hardly run by changing the fuel ratios in either direction. Ie, if too rich I get one wicked backfire when I put it in gear and slam on the gas and if I run it leaner it will kill.

Everyone that I have talked with says that I need to put in a torque converter with an RPM stall, but I’ve never selected stall. My car is a convertible, so it is relatively light when compared to most classics. I’m not sure what rear end gears I have in it, but I will be investigating that as soon as things warm up.

My car kicks a** at speeds above 50mph.

I’m concerned about the lunge that can occur with a stall converter as I have original brakes and don’t want to bump my girl into anything.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

If you are in the twincities area for Back to the 50s, I’ll see you on the streets! Look for the red one with the white top.

Ole

Oh and I’ve been told by everyone numbers between 2000 and 3500. I’m going to have my car on a dyno eventually, but everyone that has rode in it thinks its over 350hp. Most people think I’m running a big block before they look under the hood…haha…maybe its the hooker headers and 3" pipes with 36" glasspacks.

What RPM does it idle at? Sounds like it’s idling way too high which means you have problems in the primary fuel circuit in the carb. What power valve are you running as opposed to vacuum levels at idle?

Sounds like you need more carb adjustments rather than a stall converter. A stall converter will simply hide the problems with the carb. The power valve should be picked to open at slightly higher than the idle speed vacuum levels but you need to get idle speeds down to around 7-800 rpm’s first. If intake manifold vacuum at idle is 15 inches of Mercury on a vacuum gauge, you need a power valve rated for 16…power valves make a big difference in carb adjustments and performance. The power valve works in conjunction with the carb accelerator pump to add fuel as the engine demands it…the power valve does this by vacuum levels where the accel pump is controlled by the accel linkage. Accelerator pump and squirter nozzles can also be varied for duration or pump volume. Perhaps it’s not as "perfectly" tuned as well as you think.

Putting a stall converter in will allow the engine to "flare" until the converter takes hold which can accomodate engines which must run at much higher idle speeds but you’re almost always better off identifiying carb problems first for better performance and economy.